January 12, 2023

New Trader: Moreish Mushrooms

We’re thrilled to have new trader, Moreish Mushrooms, with us at market this autumn and beyond. Prepare to find fresh inspiration for fungi-fuelled dishes on a regular basis, as Sam’s stall showcases the scope and potential of these beautiful foodstuffs throughout the seasons.

We caught up with Sam to discover what inspired him to start his journey as a mushroom cultivator, specialising in fresh mushrooms a world apart from those in the aisle of your local supermarket.

How did it all begin?

“I’ve pretty much always worked in horticulture and agriculture and, before I moved to Cornwall, I spent several years in America working on farms,” recalls Sam. “When I relocated to the Westcountry I got a job in a plant nursery, and it was there that I really got into mushroom growing. It’s a fascinating process, and I also love the fact that you don’t have to wait a whole season to see results.”

Sam began researching and experimenting during lockdown, perfecting his approach before taking the plunge and launching his business, Moreish Mushrooms. He familiarised himself with the art of cultivating mushrooms, learning about optimum growing conditions and the characteristics of the varieties successfully cropped in the UK.

How difficult is it to grow mushrooms?

“It’s a complex process, which is why there aren’t that many small operations like mine,” explains Sam. “You start with a clean mushroom culture, suspended in a sterile liquid. This is injected into something called a ‘grain spawn’, which I make myself using boiled oats. The mycelium feed on this, completely colonising it.”

Sam goes onto to explain that incubation takes place in large plastic bags, which have to be kept at constant temperatures in a high-humidity environment. They can’t get too hot, or contamination occurs. They have to be left to their own devices with good air flow between each bag. “This part of the process can take anywhere between 10 days and three months depending on the variety,” explains Sam.

Next, the ‘bulk substrate’ as it’s now called, must be encouraged to start fruiting. This can involve introducing oxygen by cutting the bags and lowering the temperature. While fruiting is taking place the environment has to be carefully controlled and harvesting must be timed just right, but if all goes to plan you can simply gather big clusters of beautiful fresh mushrooms!

It sounds like a challenge! What are the biggest stumbling blocks?

“For me, it’s keeping the temperature and humidity just right in Cornwall’s constantly changing climate! You have to react quickly to changes in the external environment,” explains Sam. “It’s also essential to keep everything sterile, so there’s lots of sterilising and cleaning involved.”

While bigger mushroom cultivators have the benefit of purpose-built, high-tech premises, Sam literally had to build his own from the ground up, but it’s now bearing fruit.

When people think of fresh mushrooms, they often think of foraging in the wild. Is that something you do too?

“I love to forage, and I do it regularly for pleasure, but it’s very time-consuming and it would be impossible to build a viable business in that way,” says Sam. “Occasionally I bring wild mushrooms to market which are supplied by a friend of mine, but the vast majority are cultivated.”

Sam grows mushrooms all year, although some varieties fare better during certain seasons. For example, pink mushrooms flourish during hot weather, but many other varieties prefer cooler temperatures. “I have to plan ahead carefully to think what the weather might be like during the lifecycle of the mycelium,” explains Sam. “It’s impossible to get it right every time, but with experience I’m gradually increasing my success rate!”

How many varieties do you grow at any one time, and do you have favourites?

“Availability depends on the season to some extent, but generally you’ll find me at market with around seven varieties,” says Sam.

“King oysters are a mainstay and certainly one of my favourites. They are quite a ‘meaty’ mushroom and I often recommend them as a vegan-friendly substitute for things like pulled pork. Lion’s Main is great for making mushrooms steaks, and Shitake are always my go-to mushroom for Asian dishes, especially soups.”

What’s next for Moreish Mushrooms?

Sam is keen to remain a small, local business rooted in the Cornish food community, saying: “The business is still very new, so I’m looking to consolidate over the next few years. I’d like to get my production consistent enough that I can offer my product to restaurants, and I’d also like to run workshops too.”

He adds: “Lots of people approach me with an interest in growing mushrooms, or keen to know more about how they can be used in gardening and composting. I’m happy to share my knowledge. Fungi are just the most incredible, fascinating thing in my opinion!”

Finally, what’s the response been like at market?

“People are really drawn to the stall and have lots of questions about production and use,” enthuses Sam. “I generally sell out of everything I take, which is great.”

“The market has a strong following of regular shoppers, so I often get to hear what people have done with their mushrooms the week before. The community of market traders is brilliant, there’s a good buzz and lots of positivity around supporting each other.”
There are certainly lots of talented home cooks out there who love to experiment! Why not come to market this weekend and see what fresh ingredients Sam and our other traders have in store for you?!

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